PFW Haute Couture SS20- part 2

 My last fashion shows for this year’s haute couture spring / summer collections before I head to Los Angeles for the Grammys. But what an enchanting moment!  This year’s collections were more than of the highest quality: feminine with a message and skills. Blogging about them was a great pleasure and I once again thank all the people who believed in me and love my writing.

Here are my favorites.


Giambattista Valli.

  January 20th , 2020, 7:30 pm 

 A darling of actresses and hit girls that make and break fashion, the Italian designer decided this time to surprise us all with a presentation and not a fashion show for his spring / summer 20 haute couture collection. Inside the Galerie du Jeu de Paume, near the Tuileries, a place so important in the History of France because it is there that on June 20, 1789, the third estate decided to “not separate and assemble where circumstances require, until the kingdom was “established.” It was a pivotal event in the French Revolution. So Valli also made his historic fashion statement there.  

Gianbattista Valli. Haute Couture SS20

 He was also a visionary when he decided to open his exhibition to the public instead of the exclusive and secret atmosphere around fashion shows. With the longest strike that France has known to date, complicating an already tight and crazy calendar, this turns out to be a very smart decision. Walking among the public was the perfect time to interact with the designer. No flesh dummies, but beautifully illuminated dummies. Spring colors, floral drapes and creations, for a breath of fresh air and a real pleasure for the eyes. A very Jardins de Monet atmosphere

giambattista valli spring 2020 couture Vogue

Merci Thank you very much for this unique moment which fills our heads and our hearts with good vibrations. We started from the stars in the eyes and smiled. Madonna was so right: “Italians do it better” 

Elie Saab

 January 22nd 2020, 12:30 pm

I can’t even express my delight. As always I am blown away.

#FTMRunway / The dream gown ✨ @ElieSaabWorld spring/summer 2020 haute couture show in Paris.

Elie Saab . Haute Couture SS20

Iris Van Herpen

 January 20th 2020, 12:00 pm

  I am so fond of her style, her creativity and her very organic fashion sense. The way she links nature (her seashell dresses) with the most hyped graphics, always as colorful with dreamy and catchy colors. Every detail is poetry. Each time she creates endless masterpieces. But also a conscious claim of our planet: to clean and take care of the oceans and all the flora that lives there. 

This collection is called hypnosis for a reason. In Greek mythology, Hypnos, son of Nyx (night itself) is the god of sleep, twin brother of Thanathos (god of painless death) and that says it all. Her clothes can transform any woman into a goddess, very powerful, but also prevent us from continuing to fall asleep hypnotized by the lies of politics because they lead us to certain death .Image result for iris van herpen haute couture 2020

Iris Van Herpen – Haute Couture SS20

Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture SS20
Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture SS20

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2020 (his last runway show). 

 January 22nd 2020, 8:30pm 

L’ Enfant terrible de la mode” had chosen the Théâtre du Châtelet to say goodbye to the fashion world after 50 years of audacity and emblematic declarations. The ideal place for the visual pleasures we were to witness this evening. The show started with the trailer for “Who Are You Polly Magoo“, a founding piece of Gaultier’s work and art, and each guest received a note explaining the show and why the creator decided not to do a fashion show anymore, although his fashion brand continues of course.

  The notes of “Back to black” by the late Amy Winehouse resound in a dark theater as the emblematic leader of Culture Club, the very trendy Boy Georges opens the festivities, resuming the song as a coffin held by 8 men arrives on stage where Issa Linh comes from. A fairly strong metaphor which for Gaultier who seems to declare: “Haute Couture is dead”!

Issa Lish at Jean Paul Gaultier Spring – Summer 2020 backstage.

 And let’s go for an hour of fashion lessons. The designer revisits his most emblematic clothes: the corset, the striped stripes of his stripes, the kilt, the conical breasts, multi-ethnic fashion,  etc…

Bella Hadid. Gaultier SS20 Haute Couture
Irina Shayk- Gaultier SS 20 Haute Couture

  Then  French singer Catherine Ringer brings back the feeling of the Parisian soul of the 30s with her song “Les Amants ( the lovers)” while his sailor tee-shirt the famous french mariniere appears on the runway . 

Défilé Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture printemps-été 2020 : Catherine Ringer 
Catherine Ringer. Gaultier SS 20 Haute Couture copyright photo afp
Gigi Hadid . Gaultier SS 20 Haute Couture

 The shoes seem very uncomfortable, many models stumbled, took exaggerated poses but it was crazy, young, fresh, French and oh so Gaultier.

Pour  To close the show, the creator invited several of his friends: the top model Estelle Lefébure, the emblematic singer Mylène Farmer, the humorist and reporter Antoine de Caunes, the glamorous and rebel actress Beatrice Dalle, the muse of Salvatore Dali and media personality Amanda Lear, models Farida Khelfa, Laetitia Casta, Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, Erin O’Connor, Iris Mittenaere, Cindy Bruna , the legendary Laurence Treil (what a pleasure to see her again on stage), the Spanish actress Rosy de Palma, tv presenter Christina Cordula,. I really appreciated the always elegant Dita Von Teese, .etc ..

Dita Von Teese – backstage Gaultier SS 20 Haute Couture
Dita Von Teese . Gaultier Haute Couture SS20

 It was pure madness but also a lot of joy !! I really liked it even more with the “encore” roundly led by a Boy George at the top of his form and his talent. 

Le chanteur Boy George au final du défilé haute couture printemps-été 2020  de Jean Paul Gaultier, pour ses 50 ans de carrière. Le 22 janvier 2020 au théâtre du Châtelet à Paris. 
Boy George – Gaultier Haute Couture SS20 GRAND FINALE

 Alexis Mabille

 January 21st  2020, 1:30 pm

 Le siège de  Sotheby’s headquarters in Paris was the Place du Roi for this magnificent fashion show. Age is nothing more than a number and talent is not measured by age for sure. The rising star of French couture truly embodies this spirit. Again, his collection is perfect, flawless. Black and white primary colors for an ode to femininity. As always, I should say. What I particularly like is that it magnifies the bodies, whatever the silhouette, his clothes always manage to make you look at the forefront of fashion, sexy, strong and in control.

 This is certainly why, after having learned from the most strict designers on the importance of craft work, (Ungaro and Nina Ricci), he started working for Dior with Galiano then Heidi Slimane, before joining Saint Laurent . In 2005, he launched his own brand with his signature style: the bow tie himself creating his ever growing fan base for his perfect blend of masculine and feminine as St Laurent did back in the days.

Alexis Mabille- Haute Couture SS20.

Après After being a guest member of the Haute Couture Union Chamber in 2008, Mabille received the official designation of Haute Couture in December 2012 and was decorated with the badge of Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres at the Ministry of Culture in June 2015. 

Alexis Mabille. Haute Couture SS20

Mabillerez-vous Monsieur ? 

Alexis Mabille- Haute Couture SS20

Guo Pei

January 22nd 2020, 7:00 pm

 Another of my favorite designers. Until 2015, she was not known outside of China, dressing businesswomen and celebrities in her country. Then everything changed when asked to design the martial arts costume for the 2008 Olympics, drawing the attention of celebrities outside of China. Her rise to international fame came in 2015 with the magnificent yellow dress, very Ming / Forbidden City dynasty worn by singer Rihanna for the Met Gala. Since then, many people have fallen in love with his highly documented and well-constructed world of embroidery and designs. 

Guo Pei . Haute Couture SS 20

 Cette  This collection is once again the perfect expression of spirituality as a reference and reverence to the Himalayas and its sherpas. Natural separation between China and Tibet. While there are no political statements of any kind, this collection is nonetheless an allegory for people to push their limits, to try to venture into new spaces, to test themselves and not to be limited. by what we know how to see, hear or more precisely what we think we know, see or hear. Nature is the best therapist and getting lost in the big white is cathartic.

   Fashion is an art for sure and when the intention behind it is to make people question or to reach them even on an unconscious level, it is pure poetry.

  Perfect blend of graphics, traditional Asian and more precisely Chinese crafts, painting, religious and rococo. 

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